Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
